Bordeaux-Pruniers

Technically, much of this post is about the countryside about 65 km from Bordeaux, rather than the city itself. I have this book/CD on walking meditation by Thich Nhat Hanh, a Buddhist master, and Nguyen Anh-Huong, one of his first ordained students. It was recommended to me because one of the few (if not the only) way I can quiet my mind is walking a labyrinth. I’m meant to find other ways of walking meditation to help me make it through.

Actually—let me back up. Sadly, when I got to Chartres last Friday, the labyrinth wasn’t available for walking; evidently it’s only cleared of the chairs on Fridays outside of winter. That was a disappointment, as I was really looking forward to walking the mother of all Christian labyrinths. (Yes, there are others, but this is the one everyone talks about.)

Center of labyrinth, Chartres

So Thich Nhat Hanh’s retreat “house” in the Cognac region was my backup plan; sort of.

The whole thing was an interesting experience for me, from the moment I tried finding it on their web site (http://www.plumvillage.org/). They tell about their philosophies, their retreats, etc., but do they tell you how to get there? Noooo.

And it turns out there are three “hamlets”, and the “Lower Hamlet” is the one for women (and couples).

Jill wouldn’t recognize the actual village, Meyrac, (too small, I guess) so I let her take me to Loubès-Bernac, which is nearby. I expected to take it from there with the Bing maps instructions I had. But When I got to Loubès-Bernac I could not find the directions—could I have left them in the hotel?

So I asked at the local Mairie; the woman there advised that the woman at the grocery store would be able to give me exact directions, And she certainly did. It was less than a couple of kilometers.

I knew I was on the right road when I saw three brown-robed persons walking towards me, with brown hoodie-sweatshirt things over them. Like you’d get from college sports departments. Go, Buddha!

Et voilà—there was the sign:

I don’t know quite how to describe it—kind of like a sacred camp. Rustic, barebones (although the dining hall had several air conditioning compressors); focused on contemplation. Buildings for meditation and eating; dormitories; a kitchen. A pagoda gives views onto a vineyard and a stand of trees.

It’s quiet except for the wind; one of the most peaceful places I’ve ever seen.

I spent some time running through my five sets of 21 breaths in the meditation hall. And then sat there just watching the bamboos sway in the wind.

There were small hand-written signs throughout the place (in French, Vietnamese and English):

Listen compassionately

Look deeply

They really struck me because I don’t think I’ve been doing either for a long time. Probably even longer than since my last good meal.

I don’t know where to start on that. Perhaps just being aware of the lack?

I had some bread, cheese and part of an apple in my car while there. As I was preparing to leave I found my web directions. I don’t know why I couldn’t find them when I was going there, but not having them forced me to get out and ask.

And connections—even for the length of time to get instructions to leave the village, climb a bit and then turn left, going past a horse farm—are another thing I’ve missed since leaving Virginia.

Connections and contemplation. Insight number two.

There is more to Tuesday and Bordeaux; that’ll be another post.

(Posted 0804 Thursday morning, Pau)