Going to the markets

About those Weinachtsmärkte… I went to six of them, and here are some selected thoughts and images.

First, not to sound like a cranky old codger, but—with the possible exception of the one at Schloß Charlottenburg—the ratio of eating-and-drinking stalls to actual Christmas things to buy was off-the-charts high. At the rote Rathaus market, it must have been four to one. I guess people go to the markets to eat and drink and socialize these days?

Also, a lot less Christmasy merchandise (ornaments, candles, etc.) and a lot more crafts things. Perhaps the assumption is that people just buy their decorations at the department stores?

(Admittedly, the last time I was at a Christkindlmarkt was in 2003, in Munich, so I’m out of touch.)

It took two tries to get to Schloß Charlottenburg; I was out in the area around 1300, but turns out it didn’t open until 1400. So I went back.

It was beautiful and charming. I had my obligatory Glühwein, which never tastes as good anywhere else but at a Christkindlmarkt:

That’s got a lot more complicated, too—red, white, cherry, blueberry…too much, people! And bratwurst. I noticed that the menu items are way expanded over The Old Days: now stalls with Finnish, Italian, Hungarian and French offerings. And cocktails to go with all those options! (Including one called the Lumumba, which called to mind how Patrice Lumumba died and made me a little queasy.) 

And the ubiquitous espresso drinks, which appear to have infiltrated all of Europe:

Also—there are enclosed stalls, which I imagine go at a premium to the vendors inside the heated structures.

In other markets, the enclosed rows were for sit-down dining. Seriously, the Weinachtsmarkt experience is all about the eating.

Schloß Charlottenburg was the only one that had live music (at least while I was there). Here’s a sampling:

There were three angels making the rounds:

Followed occasionally by three cops:

And there was a small fun fair for die Kinder:

As I left, I could see the Christmas tree in the dome of the Schloß:

On to the City market:

With traditional German Christmas fare:

I liked this claim:

Over at the Gendarmenmarkt, it struck me that a lot of the eatery stalls were essentially corporate sponsorships. Two I recognized were one from the Hyatt and one from a nearby restaurant.

Also, another tradition: Christmas grill and cheese fondue:

And this just cracked me up:

This was something new on me, soup:

And a disco ball on the concert hall:

Here's a whole lotta Stollen:

Moving on to Alexanderplatz, I realized that this Käthe Wohlfahrt has had a presence in most of the Weinachtsmärkte.

Her stuff appears to be all Christmas kitsch. Not as bad as Thomas Kinkade, but up there.

I was fascinated by this climbing Santa.

Not fascinated enough to buy one, but still.

And the market closest to me, at der rote Rathaus (which is where the Prater is), there was this merry-go-round (not in operation while I was there):

I quite liked the variety of steeds:

Up above was a sleigh and foursome of reindeer:

Not, strictly speaking, from the German tradition, but I guess it’s fairly universal.

What struck me was that there was a ladder up to the unoccupied sleigh, and it appeared to be on a guy wire. I wondered if Santa makes an appearance flying over the Weinachtsmarkt?

Well, that’s it from the Christmas fairs. I’m a little disappointed that much of the charm appears to have been co-opted by eating and drinking excess, but times move oh, eh. I am tickled by the kiddie rides that appear at many of the Märkte. Those are fun for everyone.