It’s Bastille Day. So guess the subject of today’s second
Gratitude Monday post.
I’ve never understood the rationale behind some
people—even people with multiple university degrees (I’m not going to go so far
as to conclude that they’re actually educated people)—ragging on the French.
Some
of them are like Tea Partiers who can’t talk about Wheat
Chex without blaming President Obama for the milk going sour. Whenever I hear
that sort of desperate reach kind of thing the first phrase that comes to my
mind is, “compensation issues.”
Yes, some Frogs can be attitudinal—just like New Yorkers
and Seattleites. They generally do it with more panache than New Yorkers, and
have worlds more justification than Seattleites, so I personally cut them some
slack.
I’ve never been disappointed taking a trip to France.
From my first one with no credit cards, riding a bicycle from Paris to Santiago
de Compostela and staying in youth hostels, abandoned houses and highway rest
stops, to the most recent involving comfortable hotel beds and some very nice
meals—each one has enriched my perception of the world.
To the extent that I feel at home anywhere, I do in
France. I will confess that they have raised the concept of bureaucracy to an
art—a Baroque, over-ornamented art whose objective is to stun you into
compliance with whatever whack-job requirement they have laid out for no discernible human reason. But they
certainly do it with style, unlike, say, the UK, where the approach is
basically, “Hey, if it was good enough for Victoria, it’s just fine for us. Get
out your quill pen and sign here.”
It’s an adjustment, of course, for a Californian to recalibrate
to French timetables and customs. Do not wander into a restaurant a minute before
1400 and expect to be welcomed, much less served lunch. And don’t show up
before 1930 for dinner, either.
But if you can manage the time frames, and aren’t afraid
to ask questions, it’s definitely worth it. (I once asked a server at a
restaurant in Bordeaux, “Quel sort d’animal
est une bavette?” Look: no smartphone; that means you have to get used to human-to-human interaction. Turned out that a bavette is a cut of beef rather like a
flank steak and it’s delicious.)
For the record, I really didn’t care what it was, precisely—I was going to eat it
regardless. I just wanted to know what type of wine I should order to go with
it.
I’ve commented on this before, but I actually enjoy
driving in France. Maybe not so much in the narrow-roaded towns that were built
800 or a thousand years ago, where you creep along in your rental car (or,
worse: your company car from the UK, so that you’re on the wrong side of the
vehicle for even the limited visibility that medieval streets provide) not
entirely sure whether at the next intersection you’re going to encounter a
crocodile of school children, a flock of chickens on their way to market or Asterix.
That can be a little stressful.
Plus—out in the country, on the secondary roads—gorgeous.
I love the sense of history in France. Yeah, the French
are subject to selective amnesia as much as the next nation, but coming from
Southern California, chills ran down my spine the first time I stood at the
edge of the medieval boundaries of Poitiers, looking across the plain in the
twilight below and just faintly hearing the echoes of the Moorish armies that
encamped there in 732, before Charles Martel drove them back toward the
Pyrenees.
You don’t get that sort of thing on La Cienega Boulevard.
Not usually, anyway. And certainly not without chemical enhancers involved.
It bites a little that this grasp of history means that
the grandchildren and great-grandchildren of the people of Normandy know and
appreciate the events of D-Day far more than the grandchildren and
great-grandchildren of the men who landed there 70 years ago. No—it bites a lot,
and it’s an indictment of our education system that if there’s not an app for
that, it’s unlikely to take hold in the brains of our easily-amused youth.
I picked up this book at the Musée du Débarquement, by Utah
Beach on one of my trips. It’s the result of a 1997 school project in which the
children at the Collège des Pieux, in a town southwest of Cherbourg, researched
the 1939-1945 war. They interviewed their grandparents and other elders, they
wrote to German and British participants and they dug into archives.
I’m not seeing Fremont High School putting together a
class project like that, much less producing a 250-page book with photos and
drawings among the extremely pertinent
text.
Well, I could go on, but I presume you get the picture. I
am grateful for France and the French. Et
vive la revolution!